Highlights of a Link Trail Thru-Hike 08/04/2010
![]() The latest edition of the local chapter of the North Country Trail Association featured the following story by Jennifer Cleary. They have given us permission to feature it here. By Jennifer Cleary The idea of a Link Trail thru-hike has long fascinated me. I spent my high school and college years brushing, routing new sections and setting step stones on short sections of the trail, but the bulk of it always remained a mystery. The narrow dirt path wandering into the hedgerow at Cottons crossing and the graveled road disappearing into the dark spruce plantation south of Muller Hill road beckoned. I wanted to know what was around that next bend, across the road, and at the end of the off-trail section. I finally set out to thru-hike the Link trail with my boyfriend in late April 2010. We planned to start at its junction with the Finger Lakes Trail on the southern border of Madison County and walk North until we reached the terminus at the Erie Canal Museum in Canastota. We pledged to follow the trail in its entirety; to get to know this narrow strip of Madison County. No rides during road walk sections and no shortcut allowed. This was my chance, at last, to discover the secrets that the Link Trail held. My first surprise came shortly after leaving the FLT when I discovered a sizeable patch of ramps, or wild leeks, growing beneath the leafless hardwood canopy. Ramps are out for only a short time in the spring before the trees’ leaves fully unfurl. Their garlicky-onion flavor makes ramps one of the most delicious wild plants I know. I harvested a handful and stowed them in my pack lid to enliven our evening meal. We traveled through peaceful, trillium and trout lily-carpeted forests, and then completed a short road walk before picking up the next section of off-road trail in the Tioughnioga Wildlife Management Area. A flash of red, white and blue caught our eyes and piqued our interest as we hiked through the still-bare hardwood forest. We left the trail and cut through the trees to a tiny cemetery surrounded by weathered split-rail fencing. In this peaceful place, beneath shady maples and nestled into the forest undergrowth lay James Mullner, his wife Mary, and the unmarked stone of a child. Between James and Mary set a fourth stone, polished and clean. The stone was dated 1994; the flag and medallion at the grave commemorated a military past. We left the cemetery wondering about the connection between the recently deceased veteran and the Mullner family. We felt touched by ghosts from central New York’s agrarian past. A short uphill climb on the rutted dirt track beyond Limestone Creek brought another surprise. The blue-blazed Onondaga Trail/North Country Scenic Trail joined the Link Trail just south of Irish Hill Road. The westward winding dirt path beckoned. Ironically, in getting to know the Link Trail better I found more trails to explore. The next morning we continued northward on back roads to Stone Quarry Hill Art Park. The trail wound and meandered over and across the hilltop dotted with sculptures. We stopped to wonder at the ceramic, iron, wood, newspaper and painted plywood installations as we passed, pausing periodically for a closer look. The Art Park is a tremendous asset to the Link Trail, and one of my favorite sections. It represents the harmonious coexistence of man and nature that I discovered repeatedly along the length of the trail. This seamless blend of human presence with wild places makes the Link Trail unique among the paths I have hiked. Well-fueled by a large breakfast at Dave’s Diner, we continued North on Cazenovia’s Gorge Trail toward Canastota. The walking was fast, mindless and easy on the graded cinder path. An occasional discarded railroad tie tossed haphazardly alongside the footpath and random rusty spike reminded us of the region’s former industry. Glorious views opened up through the young trees to the west; distant neon-green hillsides punctuated by black-green conifers; yellowish swathes of mouse-ear leaves alongside reddish patches of new-growth twigs. The hillsides took on an autumnal beauty as the first signs of new life and growth arrived in central New York. We were happy to re-enter cool, scrubby hedgerow shade after a lengthy and sweltering road walk. We dropped down a steep limestone embankment via a series of stone steps to a discontinued railroad right-of-way. The rail bed led us along the backside of an old limestone quarry. The towering, steel-gray walls of solemn stone and derelict rusty machinery leant a forsaken feel to the place. We came upon what looked to be the crumbling remains of an old stone furnace built alongside the ledge paralleling the trail. Our pathway leads us through hedgerow upon hedgerow northward. The trail was always impeccably maintained and well cleared. Many thanks go to the volunteers whose hours of labor make the Link Trail possible! A patch of brilliant green ostrich ferns alongside a shallow stream stopped me in my tracks. Like ramps, fiddleheads are a harbinger of spring; a fleeting treat that must be enjoyed in the few weeks that it can. Searching amongst the plants, I found dozens of tiny, tightly curled baby ferns. I carefully gathered enough of the tender, asparagus-like delicacies for supper, taking only one or two fronds from each plant so to ensure their continued survival. The final section of trail brought us through downtown Canastota to the Erie Canal Museum and towpath. It jogged and meandered through town, making the most of all available green-space. Although our adventure ended at the museum door, the North Country Scenic trail continued to beckon as it wandered alluringly off to the East. What lies around that next bend, through that thicket of scrub-brush? It certainly warrants another trip to find out! 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