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We don't normally play favorites and do our own reviews on this website, but last night I had the chance to visit a landmark Madison County Restaurant and want to share our experience with you, so here it is, and who knows maybe this will become a regular addition to our site.

Last night my wife and I had the opportunity to eat dinner at the legendary Horned Dorset Inn in Leonardsville, NY.  For those of you who are unfamiliar with Leonardsville, it sits in the Unadilla River Valley along NY Route 8.  It is about 20 miles south of Utica and 90 minutes south east of Syracuse.  The Horned Dorset has been hosting diners celebrating the best of life since the late 1970’s and is a place that should be at the top of your list when it comes to your list of places to go in New York State. 

It was a celebration of 7 years of marriage for Lorrell and I and we decided we wanted to do something a little different, and since I had never had the chance to made it down to the Horned Dorset to see for myself what all the fuss was about, it was a perfect opportunity.  I had spoken to the owner Kingsley Wratten many times about programs going on at Madison County Tourism, but we never seemed to be able to connect to meet in person so I could learn about the inn and restaurant.  Boy I am glad we finally got together.

The Inn has four rooms, and while we did not stay the night, I found myself thinking about the next time I want to “get out of town” and making the mental notes that this place would be fun to stay at.  With two queen rooms downstairs in this Victorian home, and two suites upstairs, the inn has very nice accommodations for people traveling to Colgate University, Hamilton College, Cooperstown or points in between.  Kingsley told us that he has plans to renovate several other homes in the vicinity and to be able to rent more rooms in the Leonardsville area. 

The restaurant is right next door to the inn and has been a labor of love for well over 33 years for Kingsley and his wife Roberta.  When they found the property it was caving in, and like many historical buildings in Upstate NY it was real close to being a memory.  First they replaced the roof, and then with a table saw and a lot of ingenuity they piece-by-piece put the place back together.  The amazing thing about both the Inn and the restaurant is that many pieces inside come from historic mansions all over New York State that were facing the wrecking ball, sometimes immanently.  Kingsley told us of the grand doors inside the dining rooms that were minutes from being destroyed when he convinced the demolition crew to go to lunch a little early so he and his wife could remove them and take them home.  There is a lot of sweat equity in this place.
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Salmon Mousse Stuffed Zucchini Flower
After the tour of the grounds, Lorrell and I sat down to an amazing dinner.  When we entered the restaurant we met the wine steward, and our waitress for the evening Geraldine.  She is from France and had come to Puerto Rico last winter to work at the other location of the Horned Dorset.  When it was time to open last spring, she came north to experience life in Upstate New York.  She was a wonderful waitress and a charming young lady. 

Dinner started off with an Amuse-Bouche of a warm cheese soufflé and homemade crackers along with smoked salmon, it was quite tasty and set the standard for the rest of the meal.  The menu features two soups, five appetizers, five entrees each with petite and king cuts ranging from $21-$37.  The Horned Dorset uses many fresh local ingredients including many from their own garden, and supports many local farmers by purchasing much of their meat in the area too.  The menu is topped off with four dessert selections and a cheese plate of local cheeses.

We decided we were going to be a little adventurous to help us get over the seven year itches and try the Chef’s tasting menu.  Roberta and Kingsley’s son Aaron Wratten is the executive chef and he created the menu, but he is working in Puerto Rico right now.  I’m not sure who was in the kitchen last night, but Matthew Herzog and Timothy Welch are listed on the menu as chefs too.  So putting our palates in their hands, we were ready to go with the Chef’s Menu.  Last night the menu was $77 a person, and it was well worth it. 

The dinner began with warm rolls and a lobster bisque that was tasty and creamy.  Soon after we finished the soup, an appetizer of grilled cepes and warm asparagus salad arrived.  The mushroom was very good and the asparagus, cooked to perfection, was nice and tender.  That was followed by the surprise of the evening, a zucchini flower stuffed with salmon mousse.  Wow!  When it hit my plate I was a little suspicious of it, but it was so rich, and flavorful and it left you wanting more,  but quite satisfied at that little chef’s creation.  Following the zucchini flower, a seared scallop with saffron risotto, tomato and lemon aioli was presented.  The scallop was large and cooked perfectly and the risotto would have made Chef Ramsey very proud.  A homemade kiwi sorbet cleansed our palate  before the main entrée was brought out.  Garnished with a warm mushroom jus, a nice tender medallion of local veal was accented by sautéed potatoes.  The veal was very tasty, and it was the first time in a long time either of us had the chance to enjoy veal.  That was followed by a plate of local cheeses.  I found two of the cheeses to be very nice, and I’m not usually a fan of goat cheese.  The third cheese I’m sure has its fans, but I’ll pass on it next time.  Lorrell, who does not eat goat cheese, tried all three like a champ, but decided that the cranberry and light cracker garnishes were much better suited for her tastes.  The meal was all wrapped up with a nice neat bow when dessert was brought out.  A rich, decadent Chocolate Marquis with homemade strawberry rhubarb ice cream sealed the deal.  The strawberries and rhubarb were both from Roberta’s garden and it was a nice ending to a fantastic meal.

Having never been to the Horned Dorset before, I really had no idea what to expect.  The Trip Advisor reviews are generally very good, and every time I mentioned that we were going it usually received an answer that hinted of pangs of jealousy from people.  It was worth the trip and more and Lorrell and I are already making plans for the next time we will take the road trip to Leonardsville to see what the Wrattens are cooking up in the kitchen.


 


Comments

Linda Zimmerman

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 7:19:58 am

The chef at the Horned Dorset Inn is actually Mathew Herzog. The menu you enjoyed was his creation, as are all of the dihes created there.

 

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